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The
Steps in Planting a Container Tree
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Rafael Porto, of suburban west side
Indianapolis, planted the first tree in Hoosier Heartlands "Plant a
Million" project as part of his 4-H Forestry project. The tree is a
Bur Oak (Quercus macrocarpa), which was recognized as the 2001
Urban Tree of the Year. Rafael planted his tree near the front of Chapel
Glen Elementary School in Wayne Township. Mike Warner, chairperson of
the Hoosier Heartland Forestry Committee, donated the tree. Rafael
prepared a poster showing how to properly plant a container grown tree,
which was Champion exhibit at the Marion County Fair and was a blue
ribbon winner at the Indiana State Fair. This series of pictures tells
the story of how to plant a container grown tree. Click on a
picture to the left to make it larger.
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Photo 1 – Grass and weeds rob
young trees of needed moisture. So the first step in planting is to
clear away all growth in area two to three feet away form where the tree
trunk will be. It is easy to check the cleared area by simply setting
the container and tree in the middle. Take time to properly prepare the
hole. An old time true saying is that it is better to plant a $20 tree
in a $50 hole that to plant a $50 tree in a $20 hole.
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Photo 2 – Dig the hole at
least two times the diameter of the container. Three times is better. If
the hole is being dug in a clay soil, roughen the sides by picking
chunks out of the slicked sides of the hole with a screwdriver, knife or
other tool. If you are planting the tree in the yard of a newly
constructed home where trucks and other equipment have compacted the
soil, spade or till an area 6 or 8 feet in diameter to allow the young
roots to penetrate the soil. Remember the $100 hole story. Determine the
hole depth by placing the container and tree in the hole. The trunk
flare (swollen or thickened part of the trunk just above the roots)
should be at ground level.
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Photo 3 – Remove the container
and check for roots that may be circling around the root mass. If any
are found loosen them with your fingers or a dull instrument. If the
circling is severe, prune the problem roots away. Circling roots can
"girdle" the root mass and strangle the tree. Place the tree
in the hole and fill the hole about half way with original soil. Soil
amendments such as peat moss are not a good idea because the roots will
remain in that area and not move laterally into the original soil.
Unless the soil is very poor do not add fertilizer. Pour three to five
gallons of water in the hole and allow time for it to soak into the
surrounding soil. This helps to form a bond between the original soil
and the backfilled soil as well as providing the tree roots a good
soaking. It may take several minutes for the water to soak in but it is
important to the time to do the job right.
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Photo 4 - Finish replacing the
original soil around the root mass. As you fill the hole, it is
important to firm the soil to remove any air pockets. But do not tamp
the soil with your feet or other method. This can compact the soil and
make the necessary air and water circulation a problem. As you can see
in the photo, leave a slight depression for rainwater to collect. You
can also completely fill the hole (not above the trunk flare) and build
a three to four inch ridge around the outside of the hole area for a
water holding basin.
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Photo 5 - It is a good idea to
protect the young tree with a vinyl or other wrap. The wrap should be
removed in the spring but likely can be used again in the fall. This
wrap reduces rodent, sunscald and winter freeze damage and the white
color even alerts lawn mower operators to stay their distance. Finally
place a 2-inch deep layer of organic mulch over the entire cleared area.
Mulch is one of the most important things you can do for a tree. It
helps to imitate the natural forest conditions where trees grow best. Do
not pile the mulch up around the tree and create a "mulch
volcano". This only provides a place for diseases and rodents to
damage the tree.
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Photo 6 – This young Bur Oak
is ready to grow to be a stately tree standing guard over the entrance
to the school. Bur Oaks will grow to more than 100 feet tall and up to
four feet in diameter. The cup covering its large acorns has a fringe
around its edges and is the origin of the tree’s name. It grows
throughout Indiana and is an excellent yard and park shade tree. It is
also a valuable timber tree and is a member of the White Oak family of
trees.
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